Paella with Mussels in a Black Pan

Paella comes from Valencia on Spain's east coast. In Valencian the word means the pan itself, a wide, shallow one with two handles, not the rice cooked in it. This one is topped with mussels and strips of red pepper over saffron-yellow rice, served outdoors on a wooden table in the sun. It makes a cheerful paella jigsaw puzzle. The real thing is best eaten straight from the pan.