Ramen at a Tokyo Counter

A bowl of shoyu ramen has just been set down at a narrow counter in Tokyo. Wavy noodles sit beneath slices of chashu, a soft-boiled egg, nori, bamboo shoots and freshly cut green onions. Behind the bowl, stacks of small ceramic dishes catch the warm light of the shop.

The egg and pale rim of the bowl offer two easy places to begin. Green onions bring a patch of bright color to the middle, while the dark nori stands apart from the broth and noodles.

Two similar slices of pork need a closer look. Their grain, browned edges and thin rings of fat help tell one section from the other. Around the food, reflections on the wooden counter and subtle differences in the glazed bowls provide the clues for the quieter final pieces.